Skeleton Bear Amigurumi: Free Crochet Pattern

This little Skeleton Bear brings a friendly face to Halloween crochet. Its black body has white rib details, soft round ears, and little paw pads. A wide white face, pink cheeks, and a small embroidered smile keep the look sweet rather than scary.

The bear is made from separate pieces, then sewn into a sitting pose. The white bones are decorative details on the outside of the bear, so there is no difficult color chart to follow while making the main shapes.

This complete pattern includes the head, body, face patch, muzzle, ears, arms, feet, and skeleton details. Make the face patch first so you can fit it to the open head and attach the eyes before closing the head.

About the Skeleton Bear

The design uses a large round head, a smaller body, short arms, and two broad feet. Three pairs of white ribs sit on the chest, with a central breastbone and a small curved pelvis detail below. Each arm has a short white bone, and the feet have white pads and three little toes.

The broad white face patch is different from the small muzzle. The eyes sit on the face patch, while the muzzle is attached between and below them. Keeping these as separate pieces makes the face easier to arrange.

Skill Level

Confident beginner to intermediate. The main pieces use single crochet, increases, and decreases. You will also work an oval around a starting chain, sew small pieces, and add simple embroidery.

Size and Yarn Choice

A useful target is about 12–14 cm (4¾–5½ inches) tall when seated, using fine DK cotton yarn and a 2.5 mm hook. Treat this as a guide; your yarn, tension, and stuffing will change the final size.

Choose black and white yarn of the same thickness. Smooth yarn makes the small stitches and bone details easier to see. If you use thicker yarn, the bear will be larger and the eyes may need a different size.

Materials

• Black yarn for the head, body, ears, arms, and legs
• White yarn for the face, inner ears, muzzle, bones, and paw pads
• A little pink yarn for the cheeks
• Thin black yarn or embroidery thread for the nose and mouth
• 2.5 mm crochet hook, or a hook that makes firm fabric with your yarn
• Two 8–10 mm safety eyes for a display bear, or black thread for embroidered eyes
• Polyester fiberfill
• Yarn needle, scissors, stitch markers, and sewing pins

For a bear intended for a young child, use securely embroidered eyes instead of plastic eyes and avoid loose decorations. The name “safety eyes” does not mean the eyes cannot come loose. Check every seam and detail before use.

US Crochet Abbreviations

• MR: magic ring
• ch: chain
• sc: single crochet
• inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec: single crochet decrease across the next 2 stitches
• sl st: slip stitch
• BLO: back loop only
• rnd: round
• st/sts: stitch/stitches
• FO: fasten off

Important Pattern Notes

Work in continuous rounds unless a join is specifically given. Mark the first stitch of every round and move the marker as you work. Numbers in brackets show the stitch count after the round.

For a neat decrease on a stuffed piece, work through the front loops of the next two stitches. Yarn over and draw through both front loops, then yarn over and draw through the two loops left on the hook.

Stuff gradually with small pieces of fiberfill. Keep the top of each arm and leg lightly stuffed so the pieces can sit close to the body. Do not use wire or glue.

When closing a six-stitch opening, cut the yarn, thread it through the front loops of the last six stitches, pull closed, and secure the tail. Leave longer tails on pieces that still need sewing.

Part 1: White Oval Face Patch

Use white yarn. Chain 5. Work around both sides of the chain, not back and forth in rows.

• Rnd 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, sc in the next 3 chains. Work 3 sc in the last chain. Turn the work to use the underside of the chain. Sc in the next 2 unused chain loops, then work 2 sc in the last loop, which shares the first chain used at the start. (10)
• Rnd 2: Inc, 2 sc, inc in each of the next 3 stitches, 2 sc, inc in each of the last 2 stitches. (16)
• Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) once, 2 sc, (1 sc, inc) three times, 2 sc, (1 sc, inc) twice. (22)
• Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) once, 2 sc, (2 sc, inc) three times, 2 sc, (2 sc, inc) twice. (28)
• Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) once, 2 sc, (3 sc, inc) three times, 2 sc, (3 sc, inc) twice. (34)

Sl st in the next stitch and FO, leaving a long sewing tail. The joining slip stitch is not part of the count. Gently flatten the oval. Its starting chain runs across the width of the face.

Part 2: Black Head

Work from the top of the head down.

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
• Rnd 2: Inc in every stitch. (12)
• Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) × 6. (18)
• Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) × 6. (24)
• Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) × 6. (30)
• Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) × 6. (36)
• Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) × 6. (42)
• Rnds 8–14: Sc around. (42 in each round)

Fit the Face Before Closing the Head

Pause here. Hold the white oval on the front of the head with its long direction horizontal. Its top edge should sit around Head Round 7 and its lower edge near Round 14. Adjust the position to fit your tension without stretching either piece.

Pin the patch and lightly sew its upper half to the head. Place the eyes symmetrically on the white patch, around the level of Head Rounds 10–11. Leave about six visible stitch widths between the eye posts, then adjust for your eye size and the width of the patch.

For plastic eyes, push each post through both the white patch and the black head fabric. Reach through the open bottom and attach the backs. Do this before stuffing and closing the head. For embroidered eyes, mark their position now and embroider them securely.

Sew the rest of the patch edge to the head with small white stitches. Do not stuff under this broad patch. Keep the white seam on its outer edge and avoid pulling the black fabric into folds.

• Rnd 15: (5 sc, dec) × 6. (36)
• Rnd 16: (4 sc, dec) × 6. (30)
• Rnd 17: (3 sc, dec) × 6. (24)
• Rnd 18: (2 sc, dec) × 6. (18)

Stuff the head evenly, adding filling around the sides and crown.

• Rnd 19: (1 sc, dec) × 6. (12)
• Rnd 20: Dec × 6. (6)

Finish stuffing and close the opening. Keep the face centered while shaping the head with your hands.

Part 3: Small White Muzzle

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
• Rnd 2: Inc around. (12)
• Rnd 3: Sc around. (12)

FO with a sewing tail. With thin black yarn, embroider a small triangular nose on the upper half of the muzzle. Make a short line down from the nose and two little curved mouth lines to either side.

Place a tiny pinch of stuffing inside the muzzle. Sew it onto the white face patch, centered between and below the eyes. It should rise only slightly from the face.

Part 4: Ears

Black Outer Ears — Make Two

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
• Rnd 2: Inc around. (12)
• Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) × 6. (18)
• Rnds 4–5: Sc around. (18)

Do not stuff. Flatten the opening and work 9 sc through both layers to close it. FO with a sewing tail.

White Inner Ears — Make Two

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
• Rnd 2: Inc around. (12)

Sl st to the next stitch and FO with a tail. Sew one white circle onto the front of each black ear. Leave a clear black border around it.

Pin the ears symmetrically along the upper sides of the head, roughly across Head Rounds 3–7. Sew their flattened bases firmly to the head. Curve the bases slightly so the ears look rounded and upright.

Part 5: Black Body

Work from the bottom up. Leave the neck opening unclosed.

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
• Rnd 2: Inc around. (12)
• Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) × 6. (18)
• Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) × 6. (24)
• Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) × 6. (30)
• Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) × 6. (36)
• Rnds 7–10: Sc around. (36)
• Rnd 11: (4 sc, dec) × 6. (30)
• Rnds 12–13: Sc around. (30)
• Rnd 14: (3 sc, dec) × 6. (24)
• Rnd 15: Sc around. (24)
• Rnd 16: (2 sc, dec) × 6. (18)
• Rnd 17: Sc around. (18)

FO with a long tail. Leave the body unstuffed while adding the chest details so you can secure the embroidery from inside.

Part 6: Arms — Make Two

Use black. Begin at the hand and work toward the shoulder.

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
• Rnd 2: Inc around. (12)
• Rnds 3–6: Sc around. (12)
• Rnd 7: (4 sc, dec) × 2. (10)
• Rnds 8–10: Sc around. (10)

Leave the working loop on a marker while you add the white arm details below. Then lightly stuff the rounded hand and lower arm. Leave the shoulder soft, flatten the opening, and work 5 sc through both layers. FO with a sewing tail.

Part 7: Legs and Feet — Make Two

Use black. Begin at the front-facing sole.

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
• Rnd 2: Inc around. (12)
• Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) × 6. (18)
• Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) × 6. (24)
• Rnd 5: BLO, sc around. (24)
• Rnds 6–7: Sc around through both loops. (24)
• Rnd 8: (2 sc, dec) × 6. (18)
• Rnd 9: Sc around. (18)
• Rnd 10: (1 sc, dec) × 6. (12)
• Rnds 11–12: Sc around. (12)

Add the paw pads before stuffing. Fill the broad foot, keeping the upper leg soft. Flatten the opening and work 6 sc through both layers. FO with a sewing tail.

White Paw Pads — Make Two

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
• Rnd 2: Inc around. (12)

Sl st and FO with a tail. Sew each pad slightly below the center of a foot’s flat sole, covering part of Foot Rounds 1–3. Shape it gently into an oval as you sew.

Above each pad, embroider three small white toe dots in an arc. Use three or four short stitches over the same tiny area for each dot. Secure the thread from inside the foot before stuffing.

Part 8: White Skeleton Details

The bone details are decorative, not an anatomical model. Short crochet chains sewn onto the fabric give a raised look. Use matching white yarn or slightly thinner yarn if the chest looks crowded.

How to Sew a Chain Line

Make the stated chain and lay it against the bear without stretching it. Adjust by one or two chains if needed to fit your fabric, then FO with a sewing tail. Sew every chain link to the black fabric with small white stitches.

Do not leave long loose loops. Curve the chain into place before sewing; pulling the sewing tail tightly can distort the body.

Central Breastbone

Ch 11 in white and FO. Pin it vertically down the center front of the body, from about Body Round 15 to Round 6. Sew it down link by link.

At its upper end, embroider two small rounded lobes side by side, using short white stitches. Add a slightly wider white oval at the lower end with several short stitches. Keep these details flat against the fabric.

Three Pairs of Ribs

Make six short chains: two of ch 8, two of ch 9, and two of ch 8. Use the shorter pairs for the top and bottom ribs and the longer pair for the middle.

Place the pairs around Body Rounds 13, 10, and 8. Each pair meets the central breastbone, with one chain extending to the left and one to the right. Curve the outer ends gently upward and leave black fabric visible between the rows.

Pin all six pieces before sewing. Keep the left and right halves balanced. Adjust the chain lengths to fit the chest rather than wrapping the ribs around the sides of the body.

Lower Pelvis Curve

Ch 10 and FO. Arrange it as a shallow U below the breastbone, around Body Rounds 4–5. Sew it in place and connect its center to the lower end of the breastbone with two or three short white stitches.

Arm Bones

For each arm, ch 7. Starting in the second chain from the hook, sl st in all 6 chains. FO with a tail.

Sew the strip along the outward-facing side of the arm, roughly from Arm Round 5 to Round 9. At each end, embroider two small white lobes with several short stitches, making a simple long-bone shape.

Add two little white dots on each hand around Arm Rounds 2–3. Secure all ends inside the arm before stuffing and closing it.

Part 9: Pink Cheeks

Make two tiny circles: 4 sc in a pink magic ring, pull closed, sl st to the first sc, and FO with a sewing tail. Sew one below and just outside each eye.

If your yarn makes these circles too large, embroider the cheeks with two or three short pink stitches instead. Keep the cheeks clear of the eyes and muzzle.

Final Assembly

1. Stuff and Shape the Body

After adding the chest details, stuff the body evenly. Keep the base broad and slightly flat. Add enough filling around the neck to support the head, without stretching the stitches.

2. Attach the Head

Center the face over the rib design. Pin the 18-stitch neck opening around the underside of the head, near Head Round 18. Sew all the way around with the body tail.

Before closing the last small gap, add a little more stuffing to the neck if needed. Finish the seam and make a second pass where necessary for a firm join.

3. Attach the Legs

Place the bear on a flat surface. Position the two legs at the lower front sides of the body, with the white paw pads facing forward and slightly upward.

Sew each flattened leg top across Body Rounds 4–7. Tack the inner side of each leg lightly to the body so it holds a sitting pose. Check both feet touch the surface before securing the last stitches.

4. Attach the Arms

Pin the flattened arm tops to the upper sides of the body around Rounds 14–16. The white bones should face forward. Angle the hands gently downward and outward so they do not cover the ribs.

Sew through the closed arm edge several times, then hide the tails inside the body. Check that both arms sit at the same height.

5. Finish the Face

Check the ear angles, muzzle, mouth, and cheeks. Remove every pin and weave in the remaining tails. Gently shape the head and feet with your hands.

Stitch-Count Check

Tips for Neat Results

Use good light for black yarn. A pale cloth under your work makes the stitch tops easier to see. Count each round before adding the next.

Pin the face first. The white patch sets the whole expression. Fit it before securing plastic eyes, because their backs may be difficult to remove.

Leave room between the bones. A simple rib design reads more clearly than a crowded one. Use thinner white yarn if the black gaps disappear.

Do not overstuff the limbs. Soft upper arms and legs are easier to sew into a balanced sitting pose.

Check the bear from the front. Compare the eyes, ears, arms, and feet before tying off the sewing tails.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is this a no-sew pattern?

No. The head, limbs, ears, face details, and bone chains are attached with sewing. The separate pieces let you adjust the bear’s expression and pose.

Can I embroider all the bones?

Yes. Replace the crochet chains with small chain-stitch embroidery or closely spaced backstitches. Follow the same placement and keep each detail secured to the fabric.

Can I add a fourth pair of ribs?

Yes, if there is room on your body. Space four pairs evenly between the neck and pelvis, keeping a visible black gap between them.

Why is my bear larger than the size guide?

Thicker yarn, a larger hook, and looser tension all increase the size. Use matching yarn weights across the pieces so their proportions stay consistent.

Why does the head lean?

Check that the neck is evenly stuffed and the head seam is centered. Add support before finishing the neck seam and avoid attaching the head too far forward.

Can I change the colors?

Yes. Try charcoal with cream bones or dark purple with white details. Keep enough contrast so the skeleton decoration is easy to see.

Does it need a tail?

No tail is included in this seated design. The body and two feet provide the main sitting shape.

Care and Final Check

Follow the care labels for the yarn and stuffing. Gently reshape the bear after cleaning and let it dry fully. Avoid pulling on the ears, eyes, or bone details.

Check the neck seam, limbs, face patch, and every white decoration. Keep the smile centered and the feet even. Your Skeleton Bear is ready for a handmade Halloween display.